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28/05/2010

Consider liquorice [Article]

Liquorice in many forms. Photo: Bah Humbugs

This week I've considered liquorice at the Guardian. Did you know it was poisonous? Click here to read.

25/05/2010

Riverford Farm [Review]

4/5

A few weeks back Riverford Farm invited me and some other bloggers down to the West Country for dinner and a look round. If you're British and interested in food you'll probably have heard of the farm. They run the largest box scheme in the country – Cain to Abel & Cole – vanning ethical cardboard and contented swedes to people just doing their bit.

Organic is a strange, regressive movement. A lot of food lovers are rightly conflicted about the impact of industrialisation on the way they eat. Yields in American farms quadrupled over the last century: a triumphant, localised victory over starvation. But the world's population has doubled in my parents' lifetimes and will double again in mine – and non-organic farms produce a lot more food than organic ones. It's ostrich-headed and irresponsible to argue that this crowded planet will feed itself on heirloom tomatoes and hessian good intentions. To survive, we'll need GM, super-intensive farming and enough pesticides to torch every ladybird's home in Europe.

What's more, the British abused organics. They took a hale, wholesome, rootsy idea about bringing good food to good people and twisted it into a pathetic debate about class. Too much organic food is now the province of weepingly awful delis, mauve labels on chilly Tesco shelves, and tasteless restaurant mark-ups.

Restaurant critic round-up, 24/05

Surbiton station. According to AA Gill, 'the railway invented the suburbs'.

Click here for my weekly round-up of the national restaurant critics at iStarvin.

19/05/2010

Consider Pimm's

My thoughts precisely.

This week's 'Consider...' at The Guardian is on Pimm's, a drink very dear to me. Click here to read.

18/05/2010

Restaurant critic round-up, 17/05

Daniel Boulud

Click here for my weekly round-up of the national restaurant critics at iStarvin.

11/05/2010

Consider the processed cheese [Article]

Velveeta Shells and Cheese. Oh lordy.

I've considered the evils and virtues of processed cheese over at The Guardian. Click here to read.

Restaurant critic round-up, 10/05

Atul Kochhar, co-owner of the much-drubbed Colony

Click here for my weekly round-up of the national restaurant critics at iStarvin.

04/05/2010

Consider the HP Sauce [Article]

Harold Wilson with "Wilson's Gravy"

This week's Consider the... is on HP Sauce, an appreciation for which I discovered quite recently but with enormous enthusiasm. I liked the way the Guardian tweeted the article, so I've nicked their joke below. Please click it to read what I've written.

"This week is your chance to get that Brown out - but do you prefer HP or Daddies?"

Restaurant critic round-up

Zucca. Near-unanimous acclaim

Click here for my weekly round-up of the national restaurant critics at iStarvin.